The Best Solo Road Trip In Oman
Welcome To Oman
Touching down in Muscat at 9:30 PM, I was greeted by a wave of heat that felt more like noon than night. Oman certainly doesn’t play around when it comes to temperatures! My first task was grabbing a SIM card from Omantel at the airport, before picking up my rental car. Having navigated plenty of airports, I can confirm that getting a SIM on arrival is a must for staying connected in Oman. But let me tell you—the real MVP of this trip was my Amex Platinum card. If you’re a frequent traveler, do yourself a favor and get it! With the Hilton Honors Gold status, I scored a room upgrade, late checkout, and free breakfast at the Hilton Garden Inn Muscat Al Khuwair. Talk about starting things off on the right foot!
Getting Around
Renting a car in Oman turned out to be the best choice for me. The roads are in excellent condition, and I found transportation options limited for traveling across cities. There are tours available that drive you to and from different cities from Muscat, but these tours tend to be expensive and often require returning to Muscat each night, which doesn’t leave much room for spontaneity—like stopping for a chat with camels or goats.
My lil’ Nissan, trekking up Jebel Shams
I initially used Waze for navigation, but quickly switched to Google Maps, which not only worked in Oman but often suggested faster routes. It saved me two hours on the way to Sur, and I stuck with it for the rest of the trip.
My Route
Day 1: Forts + Jebel Shams
I started the day early, driving from Muscat to Nakhal Fort (58 minutes, 89 km). Unfortunately, the fort was closed for renovations, so I made my way to Al Rustaq Fort (49 minutes, 55 km) instead.
Al Rustaq Fort was completely deserted when I arrived. A man named Al, who had been praying, greeted me warmly and invited me into a small office, plying me with fresh dates and Omani coffee. After chatting about my travels, I purchased my entry ticket for 500 baisa ($1.30) and explored the fort’s incredible architecture. With endless staircases and hidden rooms, I wandered for a solid 45 minutes before the heat forced me to find the exit.
Al: Professional Date Picker and Al Rustaq Tour Guide
I said goodbye to Al and hopped back in my car to head to my next stop: As Sulaif Fort (1 hour 40 minutes, 128 km), another empty fort, where entry was free. I drove into the empty parking lot just as the call to prayer began playing on the speakers of a nearby mosque. Wandering through the beautiful ruins felt surreal, as if I had traveled back in time.
The adventure didn’t stop there—I hit the road toward Jebel Shams (2 hours 24 minutes, 234 km), known as Oman’s Grand Canyon. Be warned: the road is rough, and you might want to opt for a 4x4 if you’re not feeling adventurous. But the view? Absolutely worth it. The sunset painted the sky with brilliant colors as I made my way up the mountain. I slept in my car that night (yes, seriously), but in hindsight, I’d recommend booking a room at the Jebel Shams Resort – because narrowly avoiding a robbery at 3:30 AM wasn’t exactly part of the plan!
Day 2: Jebel Shams + Wahiba Sands
Despite the lack of sleep, watching the sunrise over Jebel Shams was a magical experience. As the sky transformed from deep purples and blues to vibrant oranges and pinks, I stood on the edge of a cliff, completely mesmerized.
After descending the mountain, I made my way to the Desert Nights Camp for my next adventure. I parked my car at the Al Maha gas station and took a shuttle to the camp with two Dutch travelers, Vincent and Celine. The road soon gave way to endless sand dunes, and the camp’s large white tents emerged in the distance.
I spent the afternoon resting in my tent, exhausted from the previous night, before venturing out to watch the sunset on the dunes. The serenity of the desert was unmatched, with the soft breeze creating patterns in the sand.
Dinner that night was an incredible feast of grilled meats, fish, and Omani specialties—honestly, one of the best meals of the trip. Walking back to my tent under a blanket of stars was the perfect way to end the night.
Day 3: Wahiba Sands + Sur
Waking up in Wahiba Sands, I was ready to try my hand at sandboarding. I won’t lie—sandboarding down a massive dune was terrifying at first, but exhilarating all the same. By the third ride, I was brave enough to stand up (okay, halfway).
Fun Fact: I learned that in order for the SUVs to drive on sand, they let air out of the tires until it’s around 20 psi. This increases the surface area of the tires on the sand.
Once back at camp, I checked out and started my drive to Sur. As I got closer and closer, I could feel the temperature cool and the smell of the sea filled the air.
I spent the evening at the Ras al Jinz turtle reserve. Watching a green turtle lay eggs by the light of the moon was something straight out of a nature documentary. Just when I thought things couldn’t get more magical, the turtle began covering her eggs, and *whoosh!* I got a face full of sand as a keepsake.
Day 4: Sur + Wadi Shab
After getting back to the hotel, I slept for a bit before it was time to wake up for the morning tour. Again, we made our way down to the beach and were lucky to see 11 turtles making their way back to the ocean. The massive lines you see in the sand are track marks from the turtles slowly pushing themselves into the ocean. Emphasis on slowly.
After a quick breakfast, I set off for Wadi Shab, a scenic oasis.
To reach the wadi, you must take a short boat ride (200 baisa, or $0.50). The path isn’t exactly marked, but following the black water pipes got me where I needed to go. After climbing over rocks and navigating along cliffs, I found one of the most picturesque spots I’ve ever seen. Crystal-clear waters framed by towering cliffs. While some people swim through to a hidden waterfall, I skipped it this time and soaked in the views instead.
I didn’t really encounter very many people until I started making my way back. Once I got back to the parking lot, I saw that it had quadrupled in size. My advice to anyone planning on visiting this wadi is to go early!
Later, I returned to Muscat and met up with Vincent and Cline from Desert Nights Camp. We explored Muttrah Souk before grabbing dinner at an Egyptian restaurant in The Cave, a complex known for its live music and diverse dining options.
Day 5: Muscat
My final day in Oman started with an iced saffron latte at Sukkar Cafe — a must-visit for coffee lovers. Buzzed on caffeine, I headed to Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque. If you’re planning to visit, remember it’s only open to non-Muslims from 8 AM to 11 AM, Saturday through Thursday. The mosque’s grandeur is unmatched, from its sprawling grounds to the 8.5-ton Swarovski crystal chandelier in the men’s prayer hall.
After a relaxing morning, I spent the rest of the day wandering Muscat, walking along the corniche, and revisiting Sukkar Café for a rose lemonade. My flight home was scheduled for the early hours, so I ended the day with a quick nap before heading back to the airport.
Things To Know
Visa: Oman offers an easy-to-apply-for e-visa. I paid 5 OMR ($13) for a 10-day visa, which can be done online: https://evisa.rop.gov.om.
Driving: Driving in Oman is straightforward. They drive on the right side of the road, and the roads are well-maintained. Beware of speed cameras, which are frequent on major roads.
Internet: The internet is reliable. I purchased an Omantel SIM card and had service throughout most of my trip, except for Jebel Shams and Wadi Shab. Video calling is banned, but this can be easily bypassed with a VPN.
Dress: Oman is conservative when it comes to dress. I stuck to t-shirts and long pants throughout my trip, except at the beach and during the Wadi Shab hike.
